Fast fashion retailers rarely own the factories that make their clothes. Many experts say that conversations about degrowth in fashion must also consider the livelihoods of millions of garment workers. In the United States and Europe, potential new regulations could improve supply chain due diligence and mandate durability requirements designed to reduce waste “Brands might offer resale opportunities but they are still going to be working with influencers, pushing advertising campaigns, putting on international runway shows and ultimately producing the same if not more stuff.” “I’m pretty skeptical that any companies are going to give us degrowth - it is something we are going to have to take ourselves,” Mr. Buying less is the easiest way for consumers to reduce their impact on the planet because it sidesteps all of the headaches and contradictions that come with trying to shop sustainably, said Alec Leach, a former fashion editor and the author of the book “The World Is On Fire but We’re Still Buying Shoes.” Others believe true degrowth will come from consumers, not brands that manufacture demand. She also started Renew, a buyback program, in 2009, where customers could return clothes they no longer wanted to be resold, donated or made into new designs. Her solution is to sell timeless designs made out of durable, ethically sourced fabrics that can easily be repaired and recycled. “Healthy growth means fair wages and being mindful of the earth’s dwindling natural resources,” Ms. (She decided not to take her business public 20 years ago after investment analysts told her she didn’t have an “aggressive” enough growth plan, she said.)
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“We don’t say ‘degrowth’ here - we talk about good growth and how to grow the good things about our business while weeding the bad stuff out,” she said. The American designer Eileen Fisher, considered the godmother of the Western slow fashion movement, has spent four decades preoccupied with the idea of how to buy less, consume less and produce less while still running a profitable brand. Helping people find a secure route toward more responsible business practices and sourcing is.” “An accelerator or brake mind-set is just not realistic here. “I think to be credible the focus should be on different growth, better types of growth and how to incentivize that,” Mr.
But he said a mind-set focused purely on shrinking the fashion economy would be a mistake. “Part of the problem is that no one knows the terms,” said Daniel Susskind, an economist and research professor at King’s College London and Oxford University.Įconomists who believe degrowth is the answer are adamant, he said, that the only way to reduce carbon emissions is less growth.
Some say the breadth of definitions makes it vulnerable to greenwashing: the practice of companies making misleading claims about their environmental credentials to hoodwink customers. Like the term “sustainability,” which means different things to different people, degrowth is used in a variety of ways - and that leads to big disagreements about what it is and what it implies. But essentially degrowth is used here to mean supply chain optimization improved efficiency using raw materials to make more product that actually sells - meaning less wasted product and higher profits. The company wouldn’t elaborate when contacted by The New York Times in October. “We have seen our financials getting better although we produce less units compared to five years ago,” Halide Alagöz, the chief product and sustainability officer at Ralph Lauren, told COP26 conference delegates last year. And Ralph Lauren is exploring what “financial growth through degrowth of resources” might look like. Fledgling brands like Early Majority, founded by a former Patagonia executive, are being touted as degrowth brands because they urge consumers to buy items only once. In September, the British department store Selfridges announced that it wanted almost half of all customer transactions to be based on resale, repair, rentals or refills by 2030. But decades after Patagonia unveiled its infamous “Don’t Buy This Jacket” holiday ad campaign, some are tentatively exploring how the concept may be incorporated into their business.Īlmost all efforts involve circularity - meaning approaches to ensure that products are continually recycled, reborn and reused. No household-name companies are fully revamping business models to align with hard-line degrowthers just yet.
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